Jolene,
I copied your post and put my comment - at each question.
First question: Should we mark our frames and boxes to distinguish which have been used in a Brood Box and which has been for honey in a super? I know the color of the foundation wax will be a dead give away, but with my next few questions it will become obvious why I am asking.
>> Just as matter of record keeping - I mark all my frames with the year that I put them in the hive. The brood frames are deeps - you honey supers should either mediums or shallow frames. Mediums and shallow supers will be lighter to lift and move( you will moving your honey supers off for inspections). Save your back. (My) Deeps are only for brood rearing.
Second question: Using a frame with Brood or that was used for brood in a honey super raises the possibility of mites, moths, and other contaminants making their way into your honey. If you use a frame from your brood box, that has received a mite treatment, is this frame, or for that matter the box, no longer useable for honey to be consumed by humans?
> You don't want to extract honey that is stored in frames used prior for brood. The old cocoons will be in the cells - the bees will reuse those cell and any nector or honey they store there - leave for their overwintering. Follow the instructions for each mite treatment accordingly. Some treatments are honey safe - READ the proper treatment guidance.
Third question: In reading about hive growth they often talk about moving a frame with capped brood up to a new box to encourage growth. Does this mean only moving brood up to promote movement into the second brood box? Or also to promote movement, by placing a frame with capped brood, into the honey super?
>> Yes, the moving of brood frames encourages growth but also provides more open frames/cells for the queen to lay. You will soon see the brood box will fill up with eggs/larva and capped cell as well as honey and pollen. You just want to make sure the queen always has some space to lay - you can move frames that are laid out; just be cautious of separating the brood too far apart. The nurse bees feed and keep the larva/pupa warm. If you move eggs too far they will feel they are queenless and raise an emergency queen. How to manipulate frames becomes a more advanced discussion - because what you do depends on the outcome you are manipulating for( why and when will define the how). As a new beekeeper - you're year one goal is to have the bees draw out at least two deep boxes and maybe a super - If starting from a package you may NOT be able to take a honey harvest on year one. You will need to at least 70pd of honey reserves to overwinter.
Fourth question: Any thoughts on what type of information to include in your frame markings? Year placed into service? If it is brood or honey frame? Directional marking, like North/South, to make it easier to remember how it sat in the hive?
> I mark year and put that mark on one edge of the frame/. This helps when you are reinserting frames after an inspection - You can ensure the frames are being replaces in the same order and orientation. - Distinguishing between brood versus Honey frames will be obvious.
Fifth question: Can honey produced in a honey super, that might be surplus to your needs, be moved down into the brood boxes as resource? If done should this frame ever be used for human consumption honey?
> yes can move a dedicated honey super to above the brood box but you not want the queen to lay in that dedicated super. I keep my honey frames free of brood - if the queen does get into a super - I let the bees emerge and then will replace the comb foundation - I don't want old extracted honey from prior brood frames - the bees can have those.- Personal preference
>>I hope this is helpful - Don't get too confused and keep asking questions. >>Kurt Skowronek
